Framing is about more than displaying artwork—it's an art form in itself. The right frame elevates both your space and your piece, enhancing its visual appeal. Frames are also key to conserving artwork–keeping it safe from damage and helping to maintain its value over time.
This guide breaks down everything you need to know about art frames, from essential terminology to choosing the perfect style and size.
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There's more to frames than meets the eye. Here's a quick guide to key parts and terms you’ll encounter while shopping for frames on our site:
Molding: The outer part of the frame—what you see and touch. Molding comes in a huge range of styles, colors, and materials.
Glazing: The transparent protective layer (often glass or acrylic) on top of the artwork. Works on paper require glazing, but paintings on canvas and panel usually don't.
Rabbet: The inner lip or groove inside a frame that holds the glazing, matboard, artwork, and backing board. The deeper the rabbet, the more elements a frame can hold.
Matboard: The thick paper border inside the frame that surrounds and protects the art. Mats are available conveniently pre-cut and come in a range of colors, styles, weights, and materials for giving art a custom look and feel.
Mounting Board: Positioned directly behind the artwork, mounting boards provide a stable surface that artwork can be attached to, keeping it secure and properly positioned inside the frame.
Framing Adhesive: Tape (or glue) used to secure mounts, backing boards, and other components, specially formulated to be gentle on artwork.
Backing Board: A sturdy foundation behind the artwork, providing support and protection.
Hanging Hardware: Systems like D-rings or sawtooth hangers attached to the back of the frame for hanging.
Whether you're a seasoned artist or just starting out, understanding basic frame terminology can help you choose the perfect frame for your artwork. Watch our video to learn even more essential framing terms!
Choosing the right frame size plays a crucial role in how your art looks, but it’s not always straightforward. Below, find everything you need to know about finding the right frame size.
Standard frame sizes match the most common dimensions for prints and other types of artwork, making it easy to shop in our stores and online.
Some of the more popular standard frame sizes include:
You might need a non-standard frame if your artwork doesn’t fit standard frame sizes or if you’re framing valuable artwork, antiques, or heirlooms. Popular non-standard frame options include:
Square Frames: Designed for square artwork or photos, square frames have a modern, minimalist feel.
Sectional Frame Kits: Sold in pairs, sectional frame kits can be combined to create a custom frame that fits non-standard artwork dimensions. A flexible, cost-effective option when custom framing isn’t feasible.
Custom Frames: Ideal for unique dimensions, specific styles, or when you want complete control over the framing materials or design. Recommended for valuable and antique works of art.
If you're not using a mat, finding the right frame size is easy: simply match it to your artwork's dimensions. For example, if you’re framing a 16 x 20 inch print, choose a 16 x 20 inch frame. Just keep in mind that this means your artwork will fill the whole frame, right to the edges.
Mats are the thick, window-cut borders inside the frame. They serve several purposes, including:
Enhancing Artistic Elements: Mats create visual “breathing room” for artwork, helping to focus the eye. They come in a range of colors and textures, so they’re useful for highlighting secondary or tertiary colors and adding dramatic depth.
Preservation and Protection: Mats create space between artwork and the glazing, preventing direct contact. Many mats are also made from acid-free materials, which can help preserve art long term.
Harmonizing a Collection: Mats can be used to visually connect groupings, creating a clean, unified display even if the artwork itself is diverse.
Professional Presentation: Mats paired with crystal-clear sleeves provide a neat presentation for selling prints and drawings at art fairs and galleries.
Mats are typically composed of two layers: a thick, sturdy core and a thin, colored face paper. Pre-cut mats often feature beveled edges, which allow the core to show through and minimize shadows on the artwork. You can choose a core that matches or contrasts with the face paper to achieve your desired visual effect. While color is important, the mat’s material is what really matters for keeping your art safe over time.
When shopping for mats, keep these three measurements in mind:
Mat Opening: The mat opening (the “window”) should be slightly smaller than the artwork—around 1/4 inch on each side—to secure it in place.
Outer Mat Dimensions: If you’re mixing and matching, be sure your mat’s outer size aligns with the frame opening.
Frame Dimensions: Because mats add extra width and height, your frame needs to be larger than the artwork alone. Pre-matted frames are designed with this in mind.
Use the quick reference guide below when shopping for common frame and mat size combinations:
5 x 7 Artwork:
No Mat: 5 x 7 frame.
With Mat: 8 x 10 frame with a mat opening of 4-1/2 x 6-1/2 inches.
8 x 10 Artwork:
No Mat: 8 x 10 frame.
With Mat: 11 x 14 frame with a mat opening of 7-1/2 x 9-1/2 inches.
11 x 14 Artwork:
No Mat: 11 x 14 frame.
With Mat: 16 x 20 frame with a mat opening of 10-1/2 x 13-1/2 inches. For a more dramatic look, consider a larger frame like an 18x24 or 20x24 with a wider mat.
16 x 20 Artwork:
No Mat: 16 x 20 frame.
With Mat: A 20 x 24 frame with a mat opening of 15.5 x 19.5 inches. You could also go larger with a 24 x 30 frame and a wider mat.
Pro Tip: When using a mat, remember that the mat opening should be slightly smaller than your artwork (about ¼-inch smaller on each side) to create an overlap that holds the art securely in place.
Frames styles change as tastes evolve, but even the most contemporary frames draw inspiration from the classics. This quick overview of our most popular styles is designed to help you make the best choice for your artwork and your space.
Defined by clean lines and modern finishes and materials.
Features: Neutral or metallic finishes, minimal embellishments, flat molding. Materials often include aluminum, acrylic, or composite for a polished, modern aesthetic.
Best for: Galleries, exhibitions, and other situations where you want the audience to focus on the artwork. Spaces with a modern or industrial feel.
Understated elegance and timeless appeal.
Features: Often wide molding, flat or slightly curved surface, minimal embellishments, rich wood tones, gold or silver finishes.
Best for: Canvas panels, balancing bold colors and strong lines, loose brushwork styles, landscapes, creating a sense of timeless elegance and beauty.
A modern look that lets your canvas take center stage.
Features: A recessed design with a gap between the canvas and the frame, creating the illusion that the artwork is floating. Simple profiles and clean lines are common.
Best for: Small pieces, emphasizing artwork sides and edges, gallery-wrapped canvases, creating a minimalist look that places the focus on the artwork.
Natural warmth and casual style.
Features: Natural wood with visible grain, often with weathered or reclaimed finishes. Simple profiles are common.
Best for: Artwork with a nature theme, rustic or farmhouse decor, sign-style artwork, creating a relaxed and informal feel.
The frame's molding—the part you can see and touch—holds everything together and adds to its overall look. Molding comes in a range of materials, including:
Wood: A warm, durable classic available in a range of finishes from rich mahogany to light oak. Works well with traditional and modern styles. High-quality wood frames resist wear and tear for long-term durability. You can also find eco-friendly options, including bamboo (a renewable resource) and FSC-certified wood.
Metal: Sleek, modern, and lightweight, often made from aluminum or steel with a brushed, matte, or polished finish. A great match for contemporary or industrial décor. Unlike wood, metal does not warp, crack, or splinter, making it ideal for long-term use.
Acrylic: Lightweight and versatile, offering a clear or subtly tinted modern aesthetic. Perfect for casual or minimalist settings. Acrylic frames are often more affordable than wood or metal frames, making them perfect for larger art pieces and heavily trafficked areas.
Beyond materials, the right frame shape can enhance your piece by drawing attention to its composition, style, and even intent. Options include:
Rectangular: This popular shape provides a balanced structure for horizontal or vertical compositions.
Square: Great for creating a balanced, modern feel that emphasizes symmetry.
Oval: Ideal for portraits, vintage art, or creating a romantic feel. A popular choice for heirloom photographs and small pieces with ornate details.
Circular: Circular shapes can add a sense of whimsy element to your piece. Great for showcasing miniature paintings or embroidery.
Paper-based artwork is thinner and more vulnerable to issues like fading, discoloration, and damage than works on canvas or panels.
Examples of paper-based artwork include:
Drawings (e.g., graphite, charcoal, ink)
Watercolor and gouache paintings
Pastels
Prints and posters
Photographs
Below, we’ll explore the components needed for framing works on paper, from glazing and mats to mounting and backing boards.
Glazing is the transparent layer that protects your artwork from dust, debris, and environmental damage. It comes in a few main materials—glass, acrylic, and styrene—each with its own advantages depending on your artwork, budget, and where it will be displayed.
Glass: Excellent clarity and scratch-resistant, but heavier and breakable.
Acrylic: Lightweight, shatter-resistant, and clear, but generally more expensive and more prone to scratching.
Styrene: Lightweight, budget-friendly, and shatter-resistant—great for larger frames or those ordered online—but less scratch-resistant than glass or acrylic.
Beyond material choice, you can also find glazing with special properties:
Clear Glazing: Maximum visibility with basic protection against scratches and dust.
UV-Filtering Glazing: Shields against harmful UV rays to prevent fading and discoloration—ideal if your art will be in bright or sunny areas.
Non-Glare Glazing: Lightly etched to reduce reflections but may slightly obscure the artwork.
Anti-Reflective Glazing: Minimizes reflections while maintaining exceptional clarity, perfect for detailed or high-value works.
Pro Tips:
Galleries often require acrylic or styrene glazing to reduce the risks associated with damage–make sure to ask if you’re unsure.
Glass is recommended for framing pastels or charcoal drawings, as styrene and acrylic can build up static that causes loose particles to cling to the surface.
Mats come in a variety of textures, colors, weights, and styles—perfect for enhancing the overall appearance of artwork. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, mats serve a functional purpose by acting as a protective barrier between the glazing and the artwork. Below are the main types of matboards available in stores or on our website:
Decorative Matboard: Ideal for everyday projects and available in a variety of colors and textures. These are great if you’re seeking a certain look or color scheme for temporary display.
Conservation Matboard: Treated to be acid-free and lignin-free, these mats help keep your artwork looking fresh by slowing down discoloration or deterioration over time. Excellent for original artwork, limited editions, and other works of value.
Museum Grade Matboard: Made from 100% cotton rag, these are designed to meet the conservation standards of museums and archives. They’re designed for long-term preservation and are important when framing antique or highly valuable pieces.
Pre-Cut Mats: Ready-to-use mats that are cut to standard sizes. Perfect for quick framing projects and often available in both decorative and conservation-quality options.
Common matting materials include:
Wood Pulp (Good): Affordable and available in various colors, but these mats may contain acids that can damage artwork over time. Best for short-term use.
Alpha-Cellulose (Better): pH-neutral and suitable for long-term framing, though not quite up to museum standards.
Cotton Rag (Best): Made from cotton fibers, this is the gold standard for preservation. Cotton rag mats are acid- and lignin-free, offering the highest level of protection for valuable artwork.
Mounting boards provide a solid surface for attaching your artwork—usually with adhesives like archival tape or hinges—so it stays flat and secure in the frame.
They’re different from matboards, which provide a decorative border and keep the art from touching the glazing, and backing boards, which sit at the back of the entire frame setup to provide overall support and protection.
Standard Mounting Board: Available in a range of colors and conservation levels, standard mounting boards are a budget-friendly option for everyday projects, ideal for prints, posters, and photos that don’t require long-term preservation.
Museum-Quality Mounting Board: Archival and museum-quality mounting boards intended for museum, gallery, or conservation use are made from acid-free, lignin-free materials and often buffered with calcium carbonate to ensure longevity.
Self-Adhesive Mounting Board: Features a sticky surface for quick mounting without additional adhesives.
Gator Board: Lightweight yet rigid, gator board features a dense polystyrene core and a water-resistant wood fiber veneer surface, offering sturdy support with a modern touch.
Foam Board: Lightweight and easy to cut, foam board consists of a foam core sandwiched between layers of smooth, durable paper that enhances the board's functionality. It’s designed to provide a clean, professional surface for printing, painting, or mounting.
Backing boards support and protect delicate papers by providing a rigid backing, preventing bending and other damage. Common types of backing board include:
Foam Backing Board: Lightweight but sturdy, foam backing boards consist of a foam core sandwiched between two smooth papers. They’re ideal for thin surfaces, smaller works, and photographs.
Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF): Dense and rigid, MDF boards are made from compressed wood fibers for strong stability and support. They’re best for artwork that requires inflexible backing.
Hardboard: Also known as high-density fiberboard, hardboard is thin, smooth, and extremely durable. It’s slightly more rigid than MDF but lighter, making it great for artwork that needs very sturdy yet thin backing.
Corrugated Board: Made from layered cardboard with a fluted core, corrugated boards are lightweight, affordable, and great for budget-friendly framing projects and posters. Acid-free versions are available for conservation purposes.
Fluted Polypropylene Board: A lightweight, waterproof plastic material with a fluted or corrugated design, fluted polypropylene is excellent for humid environments, protecting against warping and moisture damage.
Pro Tip: Adding polyester or aluminum foil sheets behind the backing board can create a moisture barrier, helping regulate humidity within the frame. Foam bumper pads (“bumper stickers”) in the frame’s corners encourage airflow and reduce the risk of mold or mildew.
Photographs: Consider using mats with appropriate buffering (alkali reserves) to protect photos from acidity.
Pastels: Use fixatives to minimize smudging, as pastel particles are easily dislodged and can collect on the mat or glazing.
Unlike artwork on paper, oil and acrylic paintings typically benefit from an “open” approach (without glazing) that allows the texture of the paint to shine.
Types of artwork on canvas or panels include:
Oil paintings
Acrylic paintings
Mixed media pieces
Works with thick impasto or three-dimensional elements
Oil and acrylic paintings generally don't require glass or acrylic glazing. Here’s why:
Oxidation (Oil Paints): Oil paints cure and harden over time through a chemical process called oxidation. Proper framing without glazing allows the paint to age naturally, avoiding defects in paint and varnish.
Moisture (Acrylic Paints): Glazing can trap moisture against the canvas, increasing the risk of mildew or warping. Acrylic paintings benefit from open framing to avoid these issues.
Glare (Both Media): Glazing can cause glare and reflections that detract from the painting’s texture and overall presentation, making display more difficult.
Varnish (Both Media): Many oil and acrylic paintings are sealed with varnish, which provides a durable protective layer against dust, dirt, and environmental damage, reducing the need for glazing and making care and maintenance of art easier for collectors.
To frame or not to frame? That’s the first question to ask when displaying your stretched canvas or cradled panel. Many people choose to hang stretched canvases as they are, creating a contemporary, minimalist look. For gallery-wrapped canvases with finished edges, this works beautifully. However, for canvases with visible staples, raw edges, or artwork that feels incomplete without a frame, adding the right frame can make all the difference.
If you’ve decided to frame your canvas or panel, there are two main styles to consider: traditional frames and floater frames. Each has its strengths and is better suited to specific types of artwork. Here’s a closer look at your options:
Traditional canvas frames resemble standard frames but are specially designed to accommodate the depth of canvases and panels. The canvas is loaded from the back of the frame and the rabbet (a recessed area inside the frame) provides the necessary depth to securely hold the canvas in place.
One key feature of traditional frames is the lip, which slightly overlaps the canvas, typically covering about 1/4" of the artwork around the edges. While this overlap ensures a snug fit, it can obscure minor details near the borders of the canvas. These frames are versatile and, with the addition of glass and backing, can also be used for flat artwork or photographs.
Best For:
Stretched canvases with unfinished edges or visible staples.
Traditional or formal artwork that benefits from a classic presentation.
Multipurpose framing for photos or flat artwork when glass and backing are added.
Floater frames are a modern alternative, ideal for showcasing thicker canvases or panels. Designed to create the illusion that the artwork is “floating” within the frame, these frames leave a small gap—typically a few millimeters—between the artwork and the inner edge of the frame.
Unlike traditional open back frames, floater frames load from the front. The artwork is secured by attaching the canvas stretcher bars or panel to the frame with screws. This design leaves the edges of the artwork fully visible, making it an excellent choice for gallery-wrapped canvases or cradled wood panels with decorative or painted sides.
Best For:
Thicker canvases, such as deep-edge or gallery-wrapped canvases.
Cradled wood panels or other dimensional artwork.
Artwork with finished edges or important details near the borders.
Accurate measurements are key to making sure your canvas fits perfectly within its frame. Since stretched canvases can be slightly irregular, follow these steps to measure correctly:
Measure Multiple Points: Measure the canvas at both ends and in the middle, top-to-bottom and side-to-side. If there’s variation on either side, use the largest measurement to ensure that the frame will accommodate the entire canvas.
Account for Folded Corners: Include the extra canvas folded at the corners, which can add up to ⅛-inch to the overall size.
Check Canvas Depth: Measure the depth of the canvas stretcher bars. Choose a frame with a rabbet depth (the inner portion of the frame that holds the canvas) slightly deeper than the canvas.
Pro Tip: If measurements vary by more than ¼-inch, opt for a floater frame. This style accommodates slight variations and provides a polished, professional look. Address canvas geometry before selecting a frame. No frame will accommodate a canvas that is out of square.
Choosing the right frame is part art, part science. If you’re stuck between styles, these tips can help guide your decision:
Modern Artwork: Use minimal gallery-style or floating frames to maintain a contemporary aesthetic.
Period-Influenced Artwork: Historically influenced frames with ornate moldings or gilded finishes add authenticity to period-influenced artwork.
Drawings & Illustrations: Simple frames–like those with slim profiles in neutral colors–are a good choice for detailed drawings and illustrations, as they help keep the focus on intricate linework.
Richly Textured Paintings: Wide, embellished frames can be used to balance rich textures or bold compositions.
Metal Frames: Silver and chrome frames pair well with cool-toned graphite drawings and monochromatic pieces.
Gold Frames: Gold frames complement work with a warm palette.
Wood Finishes: Natural wood frames add warmth and complement both traditional and contemporary art styles.
Black & White: Black or white frames work well with black-and-white photography or prints.
For artwork on bright white paper, opt for an off-white or cream mat to create contrast without overwhelming the piece.
Dark frames contrast well with lighter mats and artwork.
Be careful when pairing dark frames with dark artwork to avoid a heavy or muted appearance.
Pro Tip: Upcycling old frames is a great way to keep costs down or add a custom touch. You can even paint directly onto the frame, using it as an extension of your canvas. Refer to guides on frame-painting techniques, finishes, and best practices for best results.
Archival framing materials are specifically designed for long-term preservation, meeting the safety and stability standards used by museums and archives. These materials protect artwork over time by minimizing damage caused by acidic compounds, light exposure, and environmental factors.
Framing materials marketed as archival are often (but not always):
Acid-Free: Made using alkaline papermaking technology, where the pH of the wood pulp is 7 or higher. The paper is also buffered with an alkaline compound, such as calcium carbonate, to neutralize acids that may form over time due to exposure to air, moisture, or pollutants.
Lignin-Free: Lignin, a natural component in wood pulp, breaks down as it ages, releasing acidic compounds that cause paper and artwork to yellow, weaken, and deteriorate. Archival materials are treated to remove lignin, making them safer for long-term use.
Buffered: Materials are treated with an alkaline reserve (like calcium carbonate) to counteract acids absorbed from the environment, providing additional protection against long-term damage.
Chemically Stable: Resistant to environmental factors, such as humidity, UV light, and temperature fluctuations, which can cause fading, warping, or discoloration. Will not release destructive residue through decomposition.
By choosing archival framing materials, you can ensure your artwork is protected and preserved long term without sacrificing quality or presentation.
The environment surrounding your artwork plays a key role in its longevity–with or without a frame. Consider the following when you’re choosing where to install framed artwork:
Proper care during handling and cleaning can reduce accidental damage and extend the life of your artwork and frame.
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