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Smooth-On Rebound 25 Silicone Rubber is a self-thickening, platinum-cure silcone for making brush-on molds.
Apply with a brush or spatula — holds on a vertical surface without sagging. Quick cures to a soft, flexible rubber with negligible shrinkage.
Four thin layers yield a stretchy, strong, and durable mold for casting wax, gypsum, concrete, low-temperature melt metal alloys, or resins. It has a 1:1 mix ratio by volume. For best results, use Smooth-On Plasti-Paste as a support shell.
Smooth-On Rebound 25 Silicone Rubber comes in a package of two 16 oz (473 ml) jars.
Warning — Not for use in making molds of models containing sulfur, e.g., sulfur-bearing clays.
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™ Smooth-On is a trademark.
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(based on 13 reviews)
of respondents would recommend this to a friend.
Reviewed by 13 customers
Displaying reviews 1-10
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Best Mold making product!!!
By A is for art
Comments about Smooth-On Rebound 25 Silicone Rubber:
Seriously this stuff is the best! I've tried other brands and they don't hold a candle to this product. Im a concrete artist and as you know concrete can be very hard on molds. But I use them on a daily basis with little or no sign of wear and tear. It's so tough! I have to fold the mold in side out to get my designs out and they bounce right back. I also have to mention how perfect this material picks up every detail. I'm a regular buyer of Rebound 25 and I have zero complaints.
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
Images shared by A is for art
Marble Bunnies made with Rebound 25 mold
Molds using Rebound 25
Pumpkins made with Rebound 25 mold
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By Design pro
from Charleston, IL
The product is used by Art teacher to have students make molds of themselves and objects to develop there skills and be able to change a design with out ruining original.
100% Satisfaction Guaranteed Smooth-On Rebound 25 Silicone R
By Dr. Soap
Smooth-On Rebound 25 Silicone
from Springfield, VA
This is a great product. I use it all of the time.
A few extra dollars goes a long way.
If you are looking for a platinum cure flexible mold that is super strong and makes molds with a long shelf life look no further. Compared to Oomoo Rebound is a super hero. Rebound is soft and flexible, but very rugged. Oomoo is very soft but by comparison is torn much more easily. For molds that last for years and can handle complicated objects use rebound. If you are doing a simple relief Oomoo is fine, but I'd still recommend spending the extra dollars on rebound over it just for longevity.
(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
I got a good stretch!
from levington nc
I purchased 2 products on this order. the stretcher bars were perfectly milled. in particular, the pofile with the high rounded ogee at the top edge was better than others I've purchased. its shape noticeably helped prevent the canvas when saturated with gesso at first prime from adhering to edge when drying. a fine product which i'll be on a regular basis.the silicone rubber performed as predicted .
Excellent Mold Making Silicone
from Wilmington, NC
I use Smooth On 25 to make flexible soap molds. It rarely sticks to the surface of my original item (except some crumbly stones - which I blame on the stone and not Smooth On). Even when some of my pours have resulted in a bit more shallow coating than I wished (again, my bad), the material stands up to heavy use. It is easy to trim and stays true without warping.
Love the product!
from Sarasota, Florida.
Poured the product over a 3d printed mold to create the pattern to pour the Smooth-On urethane rubber into. Worked flawlessly. Love the product!
Great as always
By Starlit Creations
It is easy to use. Just follow the directions. It sets up overnight, and you can use the molds over and over again. They will break down eventually, but it lasts a very long time.
(13 of 13 customers found this review helpful)
This Stuff Is Amazing!
By Junk Town Genius
from Taftville, CT
Rebound 25 vs. Oomoo 30:My earliest molds were made using Oomoo 30, but quickly learned that if a model had any intricate work, like for example, a deep ear canal, or mouth cavity blocked by narrow teeth, Oomoo would tear during de-molding. I've even used Oomoo with more simple low-profile objects, and even with these after a few casts the mold would tear at the corners. I no longer use Oomoo 30 and have upgraded to Rebound 25, which mixes the same as Oomoo, but the end result is no more tearing. The company provides a spec sheet of each product's "tensile strength", the degree at which it will tear/shear when pulled. Rebound is very amazing. Final verdict: If doing a one shot single cast, Oomoo is great, but if you are casting multiples, it might be a waste of time and money, because it won't last the abuse. If multiple casting, go with Rebound 25.When using Rebond 25 the motto of the day is, "Silicon Only Sticks To Silicon."Silicon Filler: You might have molds you no longer need. Instead of tossing it, save material and scissor it up for filler in a new mold. Your molds will still come out perfect because we all know that, "Silicon Sticks To Silicon"!Silicon Mold Modifying: I made a jaw that I had to modify by adding more teeth post cast, since the bottom of the jaw did not change, all I had to do was cut off the top half off, rebox the bottom half and place the modified jaw inside. Vaseline up the seam line and repour the top half and chant, "Silicon Sticks To Silicon!"Completely eliminate the need to "clay up" half your model. Just chop up some old molds into cubes to stand your object on to keep it from touching the bottom and sides walls of your box, and just pour. Gravity will create the ideal half way line of your mold. The support cubes will merge because, "Silicon Sticks To Silicon!"Silicon Tire Patching: Keep and collect all the cups that have a liner of cured silicone at the bottom. Pull off to use the cup again. Save the silicon liner later to "tire patch" a hole in a different mold. BOOYAH! "Silicon Sticks To Silicon!Silicon Hinge: Who needs reference points when you can use a hinge (or use both). Vaseline up your bottom half except an half inch along a side. Pour your top half and hinge created! "Silicon Sticks To Silicon! The hot curing process of pouring liquid plastics into a your silicon mold usually cooks the Vaseline off, but If you think residue is still on your soon to be recycled silicon toss it into some boiling water for a few minutes.Don't wait the entire 6 hours to move on to the next stage of your pour. It stops flowing after 25-30 minutes and "Silicon Sticks To Silicon! CON:Sticky side bottles. If the two parts don't interact they won't cure and you'll end up with sticky bottles with drips on the sides. Workaround: Designate your index and middle fingers and write the letter "A" on one and "B" on the other. After each pour of "A" only use your index finger labeled "A" to clean the lip of bottle and scrape it back into the bottle. Rub the sticky finger on the back of you hand. After each pour of "B", use your middle finger labeled "B" to clean up the bottle side. Rub the extra stickiness on the same spot on the back hand you rubbed "A". Wait 25mins for it to cure and peel it off.If you read this workaround too late and you have sticky bottles use some saran wrap.Rebound 25's tricky flow: This is a two part solution, so when pouring, the thinner white translucent mix will flow faster than the thinker redder mix. The speed difference can throw you off if you're using a scale to pour by weight. Workaround: Use plastic cups that have groove lines in them and note where equal mix parts fill to specific groove lines in one cup. These cup grooves have to be there for a reason, and I'm sure it based around taking liquor shots or something.How I pour:I use a paint brush and Vaseline up the walls of my foam board box. Foam board is a dollar at the dollar store. I like to pour the thicker, redder Part "A" mix first, because it seems to contain the thinner translucent Part "B" better... What does that mean? I don't know. If I pour part "B" first I notice the whiteness where the bottom and the sides walls of the cup meet. I use popsicle sticks to mix and pay attention to this ringed ravine of the cup. Make sure you attack this spot early because you will introduce many air bubbles when trying to get at this spot. The air bubbles have an easier time working their way out within the first 5 minutes. It begins to really set at the 25-30min mark. I like to pour the thicker, redder Part "A" mix first, because it seems to contain the thinner translucent Part "B" better... What does that mean? I don't know. If I pour part "B" first I notice the whiteness where the bottom and the sides walls of the cup meet. I use popsicle sticks to mix and pay attention to this ringed ravine of the cup. Make sure you attack this spot early because you will introduce many air bubbles when trying to get at this spot. The air bubbles have an easier time working their way out within the first 5 minutes. It begins to really set at the 25-30min mark.Think outside the box and remember to take full advantage of the gravity trick. For irregular objects that require a weird demolding line just wait the 25-30 mins so the mix doesn't flow , and prop one end of your box up, mix some more and pour to get a perfectly angled demolding line.
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