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Whether you're in the studio or on the road, professional tattoo supplies are key to professional results. This guide covers the key tattoo categories—inks, needles, prep, aftercare, and more—to help licensed artists find what they need quickly.
Note: Blick provides these materials for use by professional tattoo artists. We are not a training resource for beginners, and anyone learning to tattoo should do so under the guidance or apprenticeship of an experienced professional.
Explore the Guide:
Tattoo inks aren’t true inks — they’re carefully balanced pigment suspensions. The pigment provides the color, whether it’s made from bright metal salts, carbon-based compounds, or plant-derived dyes.
A carrier fluid — typically water or alcohol blended with additives like witch hazel or glycerin — keeps the mixture sterile, stable, and easy to work with. The ratio of pigment to carrier determines how saturated the ink looks, how opaque it heals, and how it holds in the skin over time.
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Pigment Type & Load: Determines color, density, opacity, and fade resistance.
Saturation & Opacity: The brightness and depth of color in the skin.
Lightfastness & UV Stability: How well colors resist fading over time.
Viscosity & Flow: How ink flows through the needle and deposits in skin, impacting technique compatibility.
Skin Compatibility: Low-sensitivity, hypoallergenic, and other factors that impact healing and performance.
Certifications & Compliance: Sterilization standards, vegan/LEAP approvals, and EU/US regulatory compliance.
Black inks are the foundation of most tattoo work, and no one formula does it all. Professional artists typically stock multiple blacks—one for lining, one for shading, and one ultra-saturated option for bold fills. Grey wash inks also play a vital role, allowing for subtle gradients and smooth tonal transitions.
Types of Black Ink
Lining Blacks: Thin, fast-flowing inks designed for crisp, precise outlines.
Grey Wash Inks: Pre-diluted blacks in a range of values, used to create seamless blends, soft shadows, and nuanced shading.
Packing & Tribal Blacks: Dense, pigment-heavy formulas that deliver deep, dark saturation for bold graphic work and long-lasting solid fills.

Colored inks bring tattoos to life with vibrant fills, bold shading, and even watercolor-style effects. They vary widely by brand, pigment load, and technique, but the goal is always the same: smooth application and lasting brightness.
Not all colors age equally, though. Reds and yellows can be more prone to fading or irritation, while strong blues and blacks usually hold longest. Most artists test different formulas and stick with the colors that prove themselves both in the chair and over time in the skin.
Single Bottles: Best for artists who know exactly what they need. Available in common sizes like 1 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz, single bottles make it easy to stock staples or pick up specialty shades for specific projects.
Color Sets: Curated collections that save time and keep palettes consistent. These may be built around a style (portrait, watercolor, neo-traditional), designed for travel, or created in collaboration with well-known artists.
Tattoo ink solutions are additive solutions used to adjust how inks look and perform. Artists use them to fine-tune flow, saturation, and blending, giving artists more control. Solutions are great for creating washes, customizing viscosity, or improving how pigment settles in the skin.
Tattoo Mixing Solutions: Clear base fluids (often water- or alcohol-based with additives) used to thin inks for grey wash effects, smoother gradients, or lighter tones.
Tattoo Shading Solutions: Formulas containing ingredients like glycerin or witch hazel that slow drying time and soften application, ideal for black & grey realism or subtle blends.
Custom or Brand-Specific Solutions: Many ink brands offer their own specialty solutions tailored to their pigments — these may emphasize extra saturation, brighter blends, or pastel effects.
Shelf Life & Expiration
Most tattoo inks have a shelf life of around 12–24 months once opened. Always check manufacturer labels for expiration dates. Expired inks can separate, lose vibrancy, or compromise safety.
Storage
Keep inks sealed tightly, stored upright, and away from direct sunlight or extreme temperatures. A cool, dry environment helps maintain consistency and prevents contamination. Never top off or mix bottles — always pour into disposable ink caps for each client.
One thing has been constant since the beginning of tattooing: you need something that punctures the skin and delivers pigment at the same time. That tool is the tattoo needle.
Over the centuries, the technology has evolved—from the sharpened bones used by ancient artists to the hollow steel bars of the 20th century to the precision surgical steel needles of today—but the basic principle remains the same.
Traditional needles are bars with a hook on one end and a cluster of needles on the other. Driven by the tattoo machine’s coils, they move up and down, puncturing the skin and depositing ink. In this setup, the needle works with a grip (the part the artist holds) and a tip (the tube that guides the needle).
For much of modern tattooing, this setup was the standard — precise, customizable, and reliable, but also messy, slow, and dependent on strict sterilization.
Tattoo Cartridges changed everything. By combining the needle and tip into one pre-sterilized, disposable unit, they made setup faster and cleaner. They run smoother, swap out in seconds, and cut down on cross-contamination. Artists can move from a liner to a shader or magnum without changing machines or breaking rhythm.
Cartridges haven’t made traditional needles obsolete — many seasoned artists still prefer bars for the control they provide — but cartridges have become the everyday standard in most modern studios because they’re faster, safer, and more efficient.
Every cartridge box is packed with shorthand. Once you know the basics, it’s easy to read exactly what a needle is designed to do.
Diameter (Gauge): The thickness of each needle.
08 (0.25 mm): Ultra-fine for single-needle or micro-detail work.
10 (0.30 mm, “bugpins”): Runs smooth and versatile for lining or shading.
12 (0.35 mm): The standard size for bold lines and solid fills.
Needle Count: How many needles are grouped together. For example, 7RL = seven round liners.
3–5: Fine lines and detail.
7–9: Medium outlines and shading.
11+: Large fills and fast coverage.
Taper: The length of the point.
Short taper: Deposits more ink, bolder marks, more aggressive.
Long taper: Smoother, more precise, less traumatic to the skin.
Configuration: How the needles are arranged. Rounds for lines or shading, flats for bold strokes, magnums for shading and fills.
Needle Codes: Labels combine all these details into shorthand. Example: 1207RL LT = 0.35 mm diameter, seven Round Liners, Long Taper.
Skin Type: Adjust needle choice to the client. Thin skin calls for smaller groupings and a lighter hand; tougher skin can handle larger groupings and heavier saturation.
Round Liner (RL): Tight grouping for clean, crisp outlines
Hollow Liner (HL): Circle with an open center that holds more ink, delivering bolder lines with fewer dips
Round Shader (RS): Circular layout but spaced wider, used for shading and small fills
Flat (F): Needles in a straight line; good for bold lines, geometric work, or solid fills
Straight Magnum (M1): Two stacked rows; cover more skin quickly, perfect for shading and color packing
Curved Magnum (RM, CM, M1C): Magnums arranged in an arc; smoother blends, softer edges
Stacked Magnum (M2): Like a straight magnum but needles are packed tighter for heavy saturation
Whipshading/Stipple Magnums: Designed for dotwork, stippling, and textured shading
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The main difference between liners and shaders lies in their needle configuration and angle. Liner needles are grouped tightly in a circular formation, with each needle angled slightly toward the center. This design allows them to puncture the skin closely together, creating crisp, consistent lines and strong pigment saturation — ideal for outlining and fine detail work. Shader needles are arranged in a wider, straighter formation, which deposits ink more gradually for softer coverage and smooth tonal transitions — perfect for shading small areas or working into tight corners.

Skin naturally bends when needles puncture. A curved magnum will cut less at the edges of the needle on skin compared to a straight magnum.
First things first: in professional tattooing, they’re called machines—not guns. The difference goes beyond semantics. It’s about respect for the craft. Guns suggest something crude, violent, or disposable. A machine reflects what it really is: a precise, engineered tool designed for artistry and control.
Pen-Style Machines: Tattoo pen machines have become the go-to for many professionals. They are the modern evolution of rotaries, shaped like a marker for a more natural grip. They’re lightweight, ergonomic, and designed specifically for cartridge needles. Many models are now wireless, which reduces clutter and gives artists more freedom of movement. Blick’s current lineup focuses on wireless pen-style machines, offering artists both flexibility and precision without the extra cords or setups.
Rotary Machines: Rotaries use a motor instead of coils to move the needle. They’re lighter, quieter, and more versatile, making them excellent for shading, blending, and fine line work. Traditional rotaries are still widely used, but the tattoo industry has evolved toward pen-style formats for comfort and convenience.
Coil Machines: Coils are the traditional workhorses of modern tattooing. Powered by electromagnetic coils, they deliver a punchy hit and produce the buzzing sound most people associate with tattooing. They’re heavy and less forgiving, but many artists still swear by coils for crisp outlines and bold color packing. Coils almost always pair with traditional needle bars, not cartridges.
Wired vs. Wireless: Wired machines, paired with a power supply, are reliable and steady. But wireless machines — powered by rechargeable batteries — have become the everyday standard in modern tattoo studios. Wireless pens let artists switch settings quickly, move freely, and focus on the tattoo instead of the tangle of cords.
Almost every tattoo starts with a stencil. It’s the roadmap that ensures accuracy, symmetry, and placement before a needle ever touches the skin. For clients, it’s a chance to confirm they love the design and location. For artists, it’s insurance against costly mistakes and a way to keep lines clean and consistent throughout a session.
No matter how skilled an artist may be, free handing is rare in professional settings. Stencils create consistency and efficiency. They reduce setup time, prevent distortions, and give both artist and client confidence in the outcome. In short: great tattoos start with great stencils.
Hectograph (Freehand) Paper: Designed for hand-drawn stencils. Typically three layers: a drawing sheet, a separator, and a transfer sheet that becomes the stencil. Often used when artists prefer to sketch by hand, though many sketch first on tracing paper for cleaner transfers.
Thermal Transfer Paper: The industry standard today. Thermal paper works with thermal copiers and printers, making it ideal for digital designs. A typical sheet has four layers: a printable top, a removable “onion” sheet, a carbon ink layer, and a backing sheet. This setup ensures sharp, durable transfers and is favored by most professional studios.
Transfer Tracing Paper: A simple, single translucent sheet, best for drafting and refining a design. Tracing paper isn’t used for final transfers but pairs with hectograph or thermal paper to create the finished stencil.
Hand-Drawn: Artists draw directly on the top sheet with a hectograph pencil, transferring the design through the layers to create the stencil.
Digital: Designs created on a tablet or computer are printed with a thermal copier or stencil printer. This method allows for quick edits and reprints, making it the most efficient workflow for modern shops.
Skin Prep Supplies: Clean skin is key for a crisp stencil. Use green soap to remove oils and residue, shave the area with a disposable razor for smooth application, and wipe with a antiseptic to eliminate bacteria. Proper prep ensures transfers stick evenly and stay put during tattooing.
Stencil Solutions: Skip old-school deodorant — it smudges. Instead, use professional transfer gels like Dynamic Color Stencil Magic or transfer creams like Stencil Stuff Transfer Cream. These formulas keep lines sharp, reduce fading, and hold up through long sessions.
Stencil Design Supplies: For digital precision, use thermal paper with a stencil printer — it’s the fastest and cleanest method. For hand-drawn designs, go with hectograph paper (for freehand transfers) or tracing paper for sketching and refining before committing to the final stencil.
Application: Even pressure, no sliding. Let dry 10–20 minutes; confirm placement.
Keep It Clean: Gloves on; avoid over-wiping after placement; re-dab transfer gel only if you must.
Quick Don’ts: Don’t skip shaving. Don’t scrub the stencil while wiping. Don’t rely on DIY substitutes.
Every artist needs a safe place to hone technique, test setups, and build confidence before working on live skin. For tattooing, that starts with synthetic practice skins — these mimic human skin without the risk.
Why Use Practice Skins
Risk-free training: no chance of harming a client or dealing with bloodborne pathogens.
Test your setup: try needles, ink flow, machines, and pressure settings without consequences.
Explore styles: experiment with shading, stippling, color packing, gradients, and more in a controlled environment.
Build your muscle memory: consistent repetition on practice surfaces helps develop control and stability.

Synthetic skin is often made from silicone, rubber, or synthetic leather, and is designed to replicate skin texture, elasticity, and ink absorption. Some practice skins are even reusable, letting you wipe them clean without losing detail.
Practice Across Skin Types
Many practice skins now come in variations inspired by the Fitzpatrick Scale, which classifies skin types by how much melanin they contain and how they respond to UV exposure.
Originally created for dermatology, it’s since been adopted in permanent makeup and tattooing as a way to anticipate how pigments interact with different skin tones.
For artists, practicing on synthetic skins modeled after the Fitzpatrick Scale is a valuable way to build awareness of how lines, shading, and color saturation may heal differently across complexions. Lighter tones may show high-contrast pigments more starkly, while darker tones may mute certain colors or require bolder saturation. Working across this range in practice helps prepare artists for the full diversity of clients they’ll encounter in a studio.
Clean, prepped skin is the foundation of a successful tattoo. Standard prep includes:
Green Soap: Used to cleanse and sanitize the skin before, during, and after tattooing.
Razors: Single-use disposable razors remove hair to create a smooth surface for stencils and needles.
Disinfectants: Applied before stencil placement to reduce infection risk.
Transfer Gels & Creams: Products like transfer gels, Dynamic Color Stencil Magic, or transfer creams, Stencil Stuff Transfer Cream, keep stencils crisp and locked in place.
The tattoo doesn’t end when the machine turns off. Aftercare products protect fresh tattoos and support healing. Artists typically recommend:
Antimicrobial Soaps: Gentle, fragrance-free formulas to keep the area clean without irritation.
Ointments & Balms: Specialized tattoo aftercare formulas that lock in moisture and support healing like Saniderm Aftercare Balm.
Protective Films or Bandages: Transparent, breathable barriers that protect fresh tattoos from bacteria and friction during the most vulnerable first days.
Good aftercare means less risk of infection, smoother healing, and tattoos that stay vibrant longer.