Choosing the Right Drawing Marker

Science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke wrote, “Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic,” and while Clarke’s Third Law probably wasn’t about artist’s markers, when we look at all the amazing things fiber-tipped markers can do, and the combination of engineered materials and science behind them, markers really do seem magical!

One amazing property of markers is that they seem to defy gravity. Color flows upside down, sideways, and in any direction the artist holds them. They aren’t pressurized, and the ink isn’t sucked out like a siphon, because either of those would make the ink leak into the cap or spill. Marker ink flows by capillary action, the way plants take up water. The secret of why this works in markers is in the tips, and the physics that makes liquid flow through small spaces.

Markers feed ink through capillary action, a mysterious process that occurs when liquid moves seemingly all by itself. It takes a difference in pressure to move fluid through a larger space, like a pump to create pressure or vacuum, but in a smaller space, surface tension and adhesion allow liquid to move against the force of gravity. In the case of markers, that space is inside the tip. Marker nibs are made of fibers pressed together tightly enough for ink to creep and crawl through the spaces between.

Markers wouldn’t feed if the tips just soaked up the ink, so synthetic fibers are just right for the job. The first marker tips were natural materials like wool felt and bamboo fiber, but for decades they have been made of engineered synthetics like polyester, acrylic, and even ceramic, materials that don’t absorb ink internally. But markers still wouldn’t work if the ink didn’t have just the right properties.

Image (left): Early marker patent diagrams, including (left) the very first marker, the “fountain paintbrush”

Marker ink needs to be thin enough to flow, but still has to carry a huge load of concentrated color, plus resin to hold it to the artwork. The dyes used are modern inventions, centuries newer than many artist’s pigments. Synthetic-organic colorants are intense, staining dyes, soluble in a number of carrier solvents. Marker ink solvents have changed over the years to make them safer and perform better, but they still have to be thin and dry fast enough for the resin binders. Manufacturers reformulated to use alcohol and even water as carriers, eliminating strong odors and health risks associated with the powerful solvents some 1st generation pens used decades ago.

Image (right): Marker advertisements, mid-20th century

Paper designed to make the most of markers brings out the full brilliance and fluid handling of the medium. Marker papers are smooth and bright white, with a coating that keeps ink from soaking the fibers. This lets light reflect back through like stained glass, and facilitates smooth, gliding movement of the tip. Using good marker paper instead of ordinary sketch paper like newsprint conserves ink and makes your pens last longer.

An additional, amazing fact about markers is that they can be refilled again and again, because the engineered materials used to make the tips don’t clog like an absorbent, natural material might. Blick Studio Markers and other great brands let you pull out the tips and replenish the ink supply, so you can bring your favorite pens back to life again and again. Synthetic marker nibs last a long time if kept moist and free from physical damage. And, if they do dry out or get worn, soaking the tips in denatured alcohol and replacing them with the worn end inside the marker body can even give a second act to worn-out nibs… just like magic!

Tips: Alcohol markers are available in a range of tip shapes and sizes—many brands even offer dual-tip versions that produce a surprising range of line weights and expressive styles. Common shapes include:

• Bullet Tips: Slightly rounded, bullet tips can be very fine or broad. Regardless of size, they create consistent lines with little variation. Ideal for outlining or adding fine details, bullet tips are also useful for cross-hatching, stippling, and adding texture.

• Chisel Tips: With this one tip type, you can create three different line weights. The broad, angled side edge is useful for wide lines or covering large areas quickly. The fine tip is useful for intricate details, texture, and fine lines. And the angled front edge is useful for general coloring and fine to medium lines—they’re also great for making interesting gestural marks. Very durable, chisel tips tend to wear down less quickly than fine bullet or brush tips and they can change width depending on stroke direction, making them ideal for calligraphy and hand lettering.

• Brush Tips: Brush tips offer the benefit of flexibility. Designed to resemble paint brushes both in form and function, they produce marks akin to brush strokes and readily respond to changes in pressure, allowing for fine lines and thick lines. Incredibly versatile, they’re great for coloring medium-sized areas, creating expressive, calligraphic lines, and blending. However, they are slightly more delicate than other tip shapes and may wear down over time. When coloring large areas, it's advisable to avoid applying excessive pressure on the nib and switch to a chisel tip instead. Since brush markers tend to dispense more ink, opt for a bullet or chisel tip if you require less coverage for a specific area.

Ink: Alcohol markers contain a dye-based or pigment-based ink that is mixed with alcohol, allowing the ink to flow smoothly and evenly, producing bright, vivid colors.

Paper: When in doubt, opt for papers labeled specifically for use with markers. Smooth, heavyweight papers, such as smooth Bristol and illustration board, prevents bleeding and feathering, ensuring optimal control over ink flow. Test different papers to understand their behavior with ink, considering factors like blending and mark strength.

Maintenance: To maintain optimal performance, store alcohol markers horizontally, especially if they are double-ended, to ensure even ink distribution. Choose a dry, cool place away from direct sunlight to preserve their quality. Organizing markers by color families and further by values and intensity levels enhances accessibility and comparison during use. After each use, return markers to their designated places to stay prepared for future creativity.

Tips:

• Bristle Brush Tips: Individual filaments offer natural feel, similar to regular paintbrushes. Ideal for textured, paintbrush-like effects.

• Felt Brush Tips: More marker-like in build, with the flexibility of a brush. These tips hold a point more consistently but are also more likely to become frayed with use. Ideal for predictable marks without the risk of stray filaments.

Ink: Transparent and watersoluble dye-based ink.

Paper: Like most water media, watercolor markers do best with robust, heavyweight paper capable of withstanding multiple layers. Opt for moderately smooth, absorbent paper to protect the marker tip, prevent colors from saturating too rapidly, and aid with blending.

Maintenance: Store horizontally and away from heat and direct sunlight.

Oil and Alcohol-Based Multi-Surface Markers: Oil and alcohol-based multi-surface markers can use either dyes or pigments as a colorant. Quick-drying, they are generally recommended for use on smooth, non-porous surfaces. Oil-based ink tends to create opaque, glossy marks that stand out on dark and reflective surfaces, such as plastic and glass, while alcohol-based inks tend to provide vibrant, slightly more transparent color. For lightfast results, opt for oil and alcohol-based markers formulated with pigments, rather than dyes.

Water-based Acrylic Paint Markers: Water-based acrylic paint markers produce clean, opaque, matte marks on a wide range of porous and non-porous surfaces. Some brands also contain pigments, giving them the added benefit of being fade-proof. The paint is more liquid than acrylic paint from a tube, so it dries more quickly than paint but less quickly than alcohol-based ink. Water-based acrylic markers are suitable for use on paper, glass, wood, metal, plastic, and photos.