Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

Seriously. Cadmium red oil paint all over. It was very fresh when I cleaned it off, but I didn't think it would come out at all. I started with the cat, tried a couple of things on her feet first & found that this worked the best. I didn't hold out much hope for the couch & carpet though, but blotting it with this soap did the trick. I'm as shocked as anyone! (Plus it leaves my brushes clean & conditioned!)

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

I am just starting into oil painting and have used mineral spirits (both odorless and regular), pure gum turpentine, paint thinner, etc. to clean my brushes. This studio soap upon first usage was better than the potentially harmful chemicals I had been using. I was impressed, especially since I did a comparison with "The Master's Brush Cleaner and Preservative. While Master's worked okay, I still had some trouble areas on one of my brushes. As soon as I used the Studio Soap it came right out. I have heard some complaints about the Studio Soap's smell. I don't find it a problem at all. I like the smell of Linseed oil. That is one reason I enjoy painting with oils.

Given a choice between Master's and Studio Soap, I would use the Studio Soap first. Nothing against Master's personally. Again , I am just starting into oil painting and this was my first usage of both of these soaps. Perhaps the Master's may be more appropriate for some other oil colours, so I am keeping them both. Hope this is helpful.

P.S. The only reason I didn't give Studio Soap 5 stars is that I have only used it once so far.

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

I've used both "The Masters" Soap, (the white cake), and Richeson Studio soap. When I use the Masters, I follow directions, soaping and rinsing until no more paint comes out. Just to experiement, I then used Richeson Studio Soap on the same brush, and MORE paint comes out! I think that clearly proves Richeson Studio soap is more effective.

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

I work mainly in oils, I use this for my brushes. I wipe off all the solvent I can get out of the brush, then rub the soap into the bristles. Add water, and voila, the brush rinses clean. It gets my hands clean too, without any harsh soaps. Great product. I highly recommend it to all my friends.

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

Just dip all types of brushes in, wipe off excess & beautiful soft brushes! I had left my liquin brush dry without cleaning so it was stiff, just dipped it into the cleaner, rubbed a little cleaner into the middle bristles & wiped it off ~ soft bristles again!

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

I really like this brush cleaner. My medium of choice is oil. I don't like to use harsh chemicals, so I like the fact that this is a non-toxic alternative. Unfortunately. there are no instructions. Here's how I use it... I put some in the palm of my hand and rub the brush until it's clean then rinse with water. I wish it came in a larger container since I use a fair amount.

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

i've used MANY soaps on my brushes.this soap really keeps the bristles soft, and deep cleans into the ferrule, something most soaps don't. it is extremely effective. i am also sensitive to solvents and this just smells good, the way linseed oil should, a pleasure to use!

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

I don't use turpentine or other solvents to clean my brushes, so I really need a soap that is an effective workhorse while also conditioning my brushes. For the longest time I've used Ugly Dog brush soap but Dick Blick stopped carrying it, and it was also fairly expensive. I was looking for another linseed soap to replace it and found this and gave it a try. It's great for the price and works just as well as my old Ugly Dog soap did.

Comments about Richeson Jack's Linseed Studio Soap:

Disappointed with this product. I ordered Richeson's Studio Soap because it came in a size I thought would be useful. When I unpacked the jar, I noticed that the contents seemed to be vari-colored, almost like chunks pressed together. Later, when I opened the jar, I found that there were large pockets of oil and the entire contents were not integrated. I've made soap, and that the soap had been poured before it was adequately mixed. I used a wooden implement to briskly stir it. The material began to slowly coalesce and in about 15 minutes to integrate into a more uniform appearance. It is still not as integrated as it should be, though it does lather well. I'm uncertain if I'll use it for my brushes though. I'll probably go back to the soap I had been using for my brushes, and maybe keep this for my work boots.